Daniel Cann

We arrived in El Paso late that evening. Our hotel was a bit basic and seedy but I had my own room to myself and I enjoyed a long shower hoping that there would not be too many more overnight journeys on coaches for the remainder of the trip.

With a population that is two thirds Mexican we had a Mexican meal that evening. I tried some chilli peppers that nearly blew my head off! It felt as though my tongue was being tattooed! Ben looked concerned as my face contorted before breaking into giggles as I gulped down my cold drink. He then did the same as me and tried a chilli pepper with the same results and it was my turn to look on in amusement. I don’t think our European palates were used to hot spicy Mexican food; the next few days would be interesting.

The next morning we exchanged travellers cheques and US Dollars for Mexican Pesos noting that the Bureau De Change had a chicken wire cover to protect the vendor! To top it all off a rough looking character got chatting to us and showed us a livid scar that ran across his stomach courtesy of a knife! It wasn’t much of a conversation and we were relieved to bid him farewell. There would be plenty more eyebrow raising sights like this to greet us over the next few days. At the grubby bus station I bumped into a cartoon character of a man called ‘Jad’. He was a Texan, wore a Stetson hat, had a gold tooth and a Yosemite Sam handlebar moustache! And I promise Dear Reader I have not made him up! He was very friendly and talkative and recognized my English accent. I think he was fascinated to hear someone different and he was tickled by the idea that we were travelling across the World with just our backpacks.

He informed me unselfconsciously that he had spent the previous evening ‘in a whorehouse in Juarez.’ What a delightfully charming story! He spat some tobacco sputum into a polystyrene cup before continuing ‘My brother left me there with my bus ticket and an empty wallet!’ Apparently he was planning on finding his brother in Las Vegas. He had a glint in his eye that suggested it would be an emotional family reunion! He took me aback when he said ‘I usually pack a nine (millimetre) but that sonofabitch stole it!’ He gave me a few pointers on how to behave ‘South of the Border’ (although I was not sure I could trust his advice on etiquette entirely) and departed with ‘Have fun boys but be careful!’

Later as we sorted our permits out and after some friendly advice from a Mexican/American official we bordered the bus that took us across to Juarez and on to Chihuahua. This journey took just over five hours past dusty towns, mountains, brush and cacti. We were living it now! I had often wondered what Mexico would be like and I was getting my answer.

Once in Chihuahua I noticed with a slight shudder that all the police carried guns. They did in America as well I suppose but it still brought home the reality of the situation. Over ten years since this World trip I have learned that the Drug Cartels have really left their mark on these towns in Mexico and there is plenty of lawlessness and violence, even back in the late nineties there was a slightly foreboding atmosphere and when we went out in the streets that evening they were eerily quiet and nearly deserted. After a hamburger and tacos with spicy sauce we decided it would be a good idea to get back to the hotel!

The hotel was cheap but grand with an old-fashioned décor. My room had a television and an en-suite shower. It was nice to get my head down again in comfortable surroundings. We really did feel like we were abroad now as Spanish not English was the first language and we were ‘Gringo’s.’ Still, it was exciting to be there and the next day we were going on a train ride through the ‘Copper Canyon’ en route to Los Mochis. Always on the move!