Daniel Cann

Further into the town a more welcomed visitor boarded the bus, an unarmed mariachi entertained us with his singing and guitar. This was yet another surreal moment in my travels in Mexico but I preferred the mariachi’s presence to the armed border guards! He left us at the toll bridge and gratefully collected coins from the passengers as he went.

At the border everyone had to get off the bus taking all their luggage and belongings with them. We had to put our bags, backpacks and suitcases on the floor in front of us while tough looking German shepherd sniffer dogs checked for any illicit substances. It was a pretty humbling experience and I really felt a strong surge of empathy for all of the Mexicans who were innocently travelling across the border for a holiday or to meet relatives. I suppose these checks have to be in place because of an underlying problem but it made everyone feel somehow degraded and dehumanised.

Once everyone was given the all clear it was back on the bus and over the border! Seeing Texas again and knowing that I was back on American soil was a great relief. There was still obviously a huge Hispanic influence and culture here but somehow I felt a little safer which with hindsight was probably an illogical feeling, bad things can happen anywhere. Stepping off the bus and walking through Brownsville I soon found the ‘Colonial Hotel’ which was only one block from the Greyhound terminal. I was so tired after days of non-stop travel and overnight bus journeys that after a shower I fell into a well deserved deep sleep.

The following day I looked at my watch lying on the bedside table and worked out that I must have slept for over fourteen hours! It was nice to have a room to myself with en suite shower, television and a comfy bed. I decided to clean myself up and recuperate. I wanted to be fully refreshed before setting off again.

My laundry was the first item on the agenda; it was satisfying to see everything clean again. Next was the post office where I sent letters to Nathan, Mike and Delana warning them of my arrival in their towns in the coming days and weeks. I only hoped that they would make good on their promises of a welcome place to stay and visit! The last time I had seen all of them had been in Australia a few months ago. If this worked out I could catch up with some friends and travel across the States with a friendly and safe stopover at three points on the way up the Midwest and on to my final destination of Canada.

The post office was very different to the ones back in England. It was more like an airport departure lounge. There were two armed guards at the entrance, another guard by a metal detector and an X-ray machine! What happened to simple stationery and a photocopier? As I queued for stamps I noticed a ‘Wanted’ poster for two men who had robbed a bank in Brownsville! What was that about feeling safer in America?

I had my hair cut at a barbershop where I was the only non-Hispanic person. I was made to feel welcome there and the girl who cut my hair was lovely. She explained that she was originally from Zacatecas in Mexico and that her family had come to America to live when she was very young. She said that she loved my English accent and was fascinated by my travels. She said that one day she would like to do something similar. It was just nice to be able to talk to someone again. I had spent the last two days pretty much living inside my head, now here I was chatting to a really pretty girl who found me interesting and exotic! How quickly things can change.

Returning to my hotel room with a slight spring in my step and a smile on my face I felt rejuvenated. I decided then and there that I would spend one more night in Brownsville before moving on.

The next morning after a shower and a shave I noticed a much more relaxed and confident clean cut version of myself looking back at me. The rest had clearly done me a lot of good and I was eager to hit the road again. After purchasing my Greyhound ticket from some tough looking goateed Tex-Mex guys I boarded the bus to San Antonio. After a stop in McAllen the passenger sat adjacent to me, (a scruffy and shifty looking man in his late twenties) was arrested by state troopers for being in possession of drugs! As he was led away in handcuffs and roughly shoved down the stairs of the bus the rest of us looked on in disbelief. This was far more dramatic than any bus journeys I had at home. Back there you may have experienced a few drunks but never armed police and a drugs arrest!

The Texan scenery passed by and I was taken at just how huge the State is. For miles and miles we drove past farmland and ranches. No wonder there is so much wealth. The sun came out for the first time in days lifting my mood. Once in San Antonio I took a taxi to the ‘San Antonio Hostel’ near Fort Sam Houston. There was a buzz in the air as if something big was going to happen soon. I asked the taxi driver and he explained that the ‘San Antonio Fiesta’, a huge event was taking place in a few days time. ‘Don’t miss it!’ he implored me.

After checking in at the hostel it was great to take in my new surroundings: It had a relaxed, friendly atmosphere very similar to the hostels and backpackers in Australia and New Zealand. There were plenty of other backpackers there including some lads from Gloucester. It was great to hear some Westcountry accents again. The hostel had a basketball court and a swimming pool, which I intended to make full use of soon. My room may have been a shared dormitory again but I did not care, it was great to be back among people my own age and to feel part of a big community once more after the alienation of the past few days.

After unpacking I went outside and sat at one of the large tables in the spacious courtyard. It was like a beer garden I suppose. I soon got chatting to Steve from Kent and an American girl. My whole outlook had changed and it was great to share stories and ideas. Steve said that he was planning on having a look around San Antonio the next day and offered me to join him. Back in the fold again, I was on familiar territory and meeting fellow travellers again. Good times!