| [47] Reflections of a Backpacker: In The Sniper's Nest |
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| Written by Daniel Cann | |
| Friday, 12 February 2010 | |
This time my Greyhound bus journey from San Antonio to Dallas was, thankfully, uneventful. I arrived at Dallas just after 4pm allowing myself just enough time to fulfil another personal ambition before catching the 6.30pm bus to Colorado Springs. After storing my backpack in a locker in the Greyhound station and a walk of a just a few blocks, I reached my destination: The Sixth Floor JFK Memorial Museum (the former Texas School Book Depository Building from where the fatal shots were fired that killed President John F Kennedy on 22 November 1963).
Growing up I had heard my parents talk about where they were when JFK was shot, viewed numerous documentaries on the subject, read books and watched the Oliver Stone film ‘JFK.’ The subject had always fascinated me with allegations of a conspiracy coupled with the drama and tragedy of a young man assassinated before his time. It seems like a lot of hopes and dreams rested on the shoulders of President Kennedy. Since then of course it has emerged that he was not the whiter than white knight in shining armour that was portrayed. After he was assassinated he had almost become deified in the press and in the publics perception. Despite his flaws and the almost reckless abandon he often displayed in private there is no doubting he was an important figure of the 20th Century. I was thrilled to finally be able to see the infamous scene for myself and form my own opinion. Dallas was a very modern and clean city, arriving in the late afternoon was the perfect time to see it, as it was bright and clear but not too hot. The Museum was impressive with excellent visuals and literature bringing that fateful day to life. It was exceptionally eerie looking from the sniper’s nest onto Elm Street and Dealey Plaza below. The archive footage was profound and I have to admit to being quite moved by it all. As I left I can remember an American man turning to me and solemnly saying ‘All he (Oswald) was good for was firing a rifle. He had nothing else going for him.’ I nodded and left. If you ever visit, it is quite a place with emotions running high and a palpable sense of history and tragedy hanging over it. Outside it was good to get some fresh air into my lungs and to take stock. Slowly I ventured to the ‘grassy knoll’ where conspiracy theorists have alleged and (so far) unsuccessfully proved the presence of a second gunman. Well after walking around the scene and making my own mental notes I have to conclude that it would have been easy for an experienced marksman like Oswald to shoot Kennedy. With the motorcade barely moving at about five miles per hour and right below his snipers nest Oswald had a target that was the proverbial ‘sitting duck.’ Ballistics have proved that a shot to the back of the head can send it ‘back and to the left’ discrediting the second gunman theory. Stood on the grassy knoll I concluded that it would take a pretty ballsy character to stand there and take shots as well as a myopic general public not to notice him. In the films you are given the impression that it is quite a large area, but standing there on that pleasant afternoon I can assure you that it is quite a small and compact area. Poor Kennedy just did not stand a chance. I left Dallas managing to make the 6.30pm bus just in time, my thoughts on the assassination and glad that I had finally seen the place for myself. To me it had been an important day. After talking to a former school teacher who was on his way to the police academy (interesting career change!) I fell into a deep and undisturbed sleep. I woke up at 7.30am in Colorado. One of the first sights that greeted me was a cowboy roping cattle on the road to Pueblo; it really was the Wild West! I found Colorado Springs to be a pristine mountain town. After checking in to a motel I walked to the Garden of the Gods a particularly picturesque nature trail that boasted Colorado’s famous red rocks (sandstone) and snow capped mountains like Pike’s Peak. The following day I walked into town and visited a few shops that had Native American, settler and cowboy artefacts. Although it was a charming and peaceful place I was happy enough not to extend my stay further and that afternoon I left for the State Capital, Denver. On the way to Denver the Greyhound bus passed Falcon Air Force Base a reminder of US military strength. I also remembered that NORAD was next to Colorado Springs in Cheyenne Mountain. I immediately thought of the film ‘War Games’ where a computer hacker nearly starts a Third World War! Gulp! The scenery was breathtaking in its sheer scope and rugged beauty; you could easily imagine the wagon trains carrying the settlers to their new homes in the nineteenth century. Once in Denver the bus driver pointed out important sights such as the Mile High Stadium, home to the NFL team the Denver Broncos and the courthouse where the Oklahoma Bomber Timothy McVey was soon to be tried. That evening I found a hostel in my guidebook after a brief wander around the city. Not a pleasant sensation to be encumbered by a large backpack on your own in a new unfamiliar city. The hostel was a real hole I’m afraid to say with the surrounding area particularly seedy and uninviting. Also it was right next to a police station making for an interesting night! I decided then and there that I would be staying for one night only. The next day I would find the ‘Melbourne Hostel’ about ten blocks away and hope it would be an improvement! |
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