I will always have a strong affection for the Mediterranean, with its clear blue sea, its craggy islands and warm climate it is the perfect place to unwind and get away from it all. This time I was going to a place where you could have the best of both Worlds: action and peace.

Cyprus is known as the ‘Land of Copper’ because of the large deposits of copper ore found there. The island also has strong links to the Goddess of Love, Aphrodite. It has endured a turbulent past notably in 1974 following eleven years of violent clashes between Greek Cypriot nationalists and the Turkish community. Turkey eventually invaded the northern portion of the island that year. This invasion led to the displacement of hundreds of thousands of Cypriots and the establishment of a separate Turkish Cypriot state in the North. These events and the resulting political situation were matters of ongoing dispute at the time of my visit there.

In the 1990s and early 21st Century Cyprus was better known for its nightlife, culture and water sports. I found myself in a state of eager anticipation at Larnaca International Airport in the early hours of a Monday morning. With me were my travelling companions and friends from back home: Tony, Neil and Graham. We had all been looking forward to this trip after a particularly bleak winter and wet spring. Finding ourselves in T-shirts and shorts in thirty plus degrees in Cyprus was a welcome change of events after leaving a cold damp Exeter airport.

A quick bus ride later and we arrived at our hotel in Protaras. Modest but welcoming it suited our needs perfectly. We did not intend to spend that much time in our hotel room anyway. It was nice to have two large rooms, ensuite bathroom, kitchen and a veranda to ourselves. The swimming pool looked inviting so we all headed there for a refreshing swim and to get acquainted with our surroundings.

After a walk around Protaras Bay, getting some groceries and playing a few games of pool (the table was next to the hotel swimming pool which made a change to the pubs back home!) we went inside and booked a few activities for the week ahead. Yes beer drinking and partying were on our agenda but we also wanted to see parts of the island that most tourists did not always venture out to.

That evening we wondered around Protatas and noticed a lot of tacky and gaudy shops and lots of new buildings. It was highly commercial as expected; as well as Burger King, MacDonald’s and KFC there were Mexican restaurants complete with Cacti and in the Spanish colonial style, Chinese restaurants with a giant golden Buddha statue as well as pagodas outside. There was even a bar in the shape of a Sphinx. We did not mind as our every need would be catered for here. This would be our base and we could live like Kings here. Unlike other holidays I had been on where I was on a tight budget and travelling pretty intensively this one was strictly for rest and relaxation.

Palm trees lined the road and there was a pleasant sea breeze making the heat a little more bearable. After a meal at ‘Mr Cod’ an excellent fish and chip bar ran by a friendly Cypriot proprietor who had worked in a similar establishment in of all places, Bristol we sampled the local beer, Keo. I found it to be sweet and refreshing. The other choice was Heineken, but I was happy to stick with this new beer. Apparently the beer won the 1987 brewing industry world bottled lager competition Gold Medal, so that was good enough for me.

After trawling through all the local bars and making merry we all arrived back at the hotel with big stupid grins on our faces only to be greeted by the hotel manager. For a moment we thought we would be reprimanded but in fact he opened up the hotel bar for us and joined us for a few drinks himself! He was in his sixties and his favourite tipple was local brandy. It was interesting to listen to him as he told us about the island and where to visit. We later retired feeling that Cyprus was a good decision and we would have a good time here.

Bright and early the next day four slightly dishevelled British tourists boarded the boat that would take us to the ghost town of Famagusta in the North Eastern part of the island. It had been uninhabited since the islands conflict in 1974 and was perfectly preserved, frozen in time. I had to see it for myself, even if we weren’t allowed on land and into the town itself. The boat was packed with fellow tourists but everyone was in easygoing jovial mood, there was free wine and food included in the overall and reasonable price of £15 for the day.

A few of us went for a swim, before the food and wine of course and we all enjoyed the peace and tranquillity only seeing a few small fishing vessels out there apart from us. Seeing Famagusta was a strange, eerie sight, a place that used to be a thriving tourist destination and community was now a crumbling forgotten wasteland. I bet it would make an excellent location for a post apocalyptic film (there goes my imagination again!)

Travelling back down the East coast and to Protaras I think everyone on board reflected how lucky we all were to be on holiday here and not subject to the violent past of the island. The sombre mood soon lifted thanks to the food and drink and music on board. That evening was another one spent enjoying the sights. We met a lot of Ukrainians, Russians and other East Europeans which made a nice change. They were all friendly and talkative. As we were all from colder climates we all agreed that Cyprus made a pleasant change. Tony displayed his organizational skills the following day having arranged a hire car for all of us.

‘Thought we could visit the Troodos Mountains lads.’

That seemed like a plan to me. Although I liked our surroundings another day of Protaras did not really appeal and it would be a small adventure in itself travelling along the Cypriot highway and driving up into the highest mountain range on the island. The radio was tuned in to a local station which played Cypriot folk music, a bit different to Radio 1! But it all added to the cultural experience.

As Tony negotiated the windy roads taking us up into the mountains we all noticed there were a lot of monasteries and churches among all the small communities and mountain villages. There was still a lot of farming going on up here as well. I loved it as it was completely different to the commercial tat down below and on the coast. This was the real Cyprus and was why I came. Eventually we got out of the car and explored the mountainsides; I was in Tony’s words ‘Snapping away like a war correspondent!’

The air was so clear up in the Troodos Mountains and it was so quiet. We visited the Green Valley Waterfall and saw some local wildlife before heading back to the hire car rental place and our hotel. We had spent a very rewarding day exploring a different side to the island. That evening Tony and Graham decided to stay in Protaras and have a quiet one while Neil and I visited Ayia Napa. Renowned for its beaches, MC’s and clubs we could not pass up the chance to see it for ourselves. After a pleasant and quiet day away from it all it was time to rejoin the masses at night.

After a few bars (and a few drinks) Neil and I met Olga and Natalie, two pretty Russian girls. Olga was tall and blonde and Natalie was petite and a redhead (she had red hair not just a red head). After polite conversation and a few drinks we all agreed that there was everything for everyone at Cyprus. The girls had been water skiing and spent most of their time swimming or on the beach. They were very easy to get along with and they were fascinated with England, especially London. It was nice for Neil and I as well as we probably learned a lot more about Russia as well as the added bonus of spending a night in the company of two pretty women.

The evening passed in a welter of drinks, dancing and clubbing. After we bid farewell to the girls Neil turned to me and said ‘That was different, we go out in Cyprus and meet two Russians.’

When we returned to the hotel it was about 5.30am and the sun was already climbing. All I wanted was water and a pillow!

Unsurprisingly the next day was spent mainly at the hotel recovering. Later in the morning we went for a swim off the bay and in the afternoon Neil revealed a stronger constitution than me by deciding to go parasailing. To the uninitiated this is where a person (in this case Neil!) is towed behind a boat while attached to a specially designed parachute (the parasail). The boat then drives off carrying the parascender (parascendee?) into the air. The parascender has little or no control over the parachute. After a coffee and some more water I was on board the boat on filming duties. As Neil ascended I was desperately coming to grips with how to use the camcorder. I must confess that the footage I managed to produce was on the lackadaisical side! Sorry Neil! Still, he had a great experience and a real buzz. At least he remained attached to the boat and did not land in Egypt!

That evening feeling more invigorated the four of us climbed the hill to see the Church of the Prophet Elias. It was a modest structure which offered excellent panoramic views of the land and the sea below. The Greek and local municipal flags flew overhead. Back in town Neil and Graham wanted plain food whereas Tony and I feeling more adventurous wanted to sample the local cuisine. On the advice of our hotel manager we booked a taxi that took us to the local village of Paralimni within the Famagusta District.

The village was modest with pretty gardens and windy streets. It had an old feel to it and a lot of character. There were many elderly Cypriot gentlemen sat outside drinking strong coffee no doubt lace with local brandy! Tony and I were dropped off at the restaurant and ventured inside. There were plants everywhere and old fashioned ceiling fans. The staff all seemed friendly if a little surprised to see tourists and not locals in their neck of the woods.

The food when it came was great, a mixture of lamb, vegetables, halloumi cheese and fruits with our deserts. We avoided the squid, octopus and red mullet! We drank local brandy and had a few shots before going back to Keo beer. After coffee and settling our beer we both agreed it was worth the small excursion to sample a bit of local life and cuisine. Once back at the hotel we thanked the manager and said that we had enjoyed his recommendation which pleased him. I don’t think many tourists venture out of the safe world of the coastal towns, resorts and cities which is a shame.

Our final day spent on Cyprus was at the giant water park ‘Waterworld’ at Ayia Napa. Replete with slides, rides, swimming pools, fake statues and pillars all in the ancient Greek style it was the perfect place to unwind. It was like being a kid again as I hurtled down several slides at breakneck speed crashing into the pools below. Time did not seem to matter anymore and it was a fantastic way to say goodbye to the place. Soon we would be back on a flight bound for Exeter and home. Cyprus was a mixture of the old and the new and two cultures Greek and Turkish. Despite its ongoing unresolved problems it has a lot to offer to the traveller and it is not hard to imagine a very happy peaceful life out in the Land of Copper.